Hardly a day passes at Denver Public Library's Western History/Genealogy Department that someone doesn't mention massive changes that have swept the Mile-High City over the past few years.
Nowhere is the pace of change more visible than in the constant churn of restaurants and bars that keep the Mile-High City fed and watered. Plenty of beloved Denver eateries have been sacrificed at the altar of growth, seemingly leaving nothing more than memories of hot meals and good times with friends and family.
The graveyard of Denver eateries is the subject of a wonderful new book by Colorado authors Robert and Kristen Autobee titled, Lost Restaurants of Denver. This meticulously-researched gem recalls dozens of shuttered restaurants going all the way back to Denver's earliest days. Of course the sections most of us will head to immediately are those that cover restaurants from the 20th Century including The Flying Dutchman, Valente's, The Yum Yum Tree, Round the Corner, and many more forgotten favorites.
Besides detailing a bit of each restaurant's histories, the Autobees unearthed plenty of historical gems including photos of table settings from some of the restaurants and plenty of recipes. One recipe that stands out both for its simplicity and its unassailable Denver pedigree is the North Denver Canoli.
The North Denver Canoli is nothing like the creamy dessert most of us are familiar with and is more like its mainstream cousin, the calzone. This dough-wrapped sausage with a slice of pepper was the brainchild of Denver sausage impresario Richard Carbone. Carbone, legend has it, was reluctant to toss out leftover pizza dough from his North Denver kitchen and used those scraps to create the canoli.
While no one is quite certain how the name canoli got attached to this tasty treat, the name stuck and is still used by those whose time in Denver pre-dates any neighborhood with a marketing slogan for a name. (LoDo and RiNo, we're looking at you.)
Though most of the restaurants the Autobees recall will leave readers longing for the good old days, some of them will leave readers with a bad taste in their mouths that wasn't caused by a poorly prepared meal. In the early years of the 20th Century, Denver was home to a particularly racist chili restaurant called, The White Peoples Chile Parlor.
This not-so-charming eatery stands as a stark reminder that the good old days weren't that good for everyone.
The Autobees drew on a number of sources while researching their book, including WHG's Digital Collections and Menu Collection. In doing so, they've created a wonderful document that's useful for researchers and foodies alike.
Whether you grew up in the shadow of The Yum Yum Tree, or just moved here last year, Lost Restaurants of Denver can provide you with a crash course in Colorado's culinary history that will leave you longing for meals you'll never be able to enjoy, like a bowl of Pagliacci's unforgettable minestrone.
Comments
Wonderful post, Brian--indeed
Wonderful post, Brian--indeed, just thinking about the lost great restaurants of yesteryear can get one all choked up...does anyone remember the stunning views of Denver seen from "Top of the Rockies" restaurant? or Lyle Alzados? very different from Elways or Shanahans--Lyle Alzado was one of the old-timer Broncos who opened a down-to-earth sort of eatery after his football playing days were over. Ah,the good ol' days
Thanks Leigh Ann! I had
Thanks Leigh Ann! I had forgotten all about Lyle Alzados and the famous view from Top of the Rockies!
My mother took us 3 kids when
My mother took us 3 kids when we were very young to Top of the Rockies and all we could afford was a plate of French fries. We were in heaven~ it's the little things. I also remember the Drumstic too.
And then there's all the
And then there's all the restaurants closing this year! RIP, Las Delicias, Rosa Linda's, and Le Central, just to name a few. :(
Hillary, there are definitely
Hillary, there are definitely enough shuttered and beloved restaurants for at least another volume!
The Original Mexican Cafe..
The Original Mexican Cafe...on Lincoln...former funeral parlor. Great food. 1969 ish
There were a couple of
There were a couple of "hungry" restaurants in Denver: the Hungry Farmer and the Hungry Dutchman. The Farmer was across the street from the Villa Italia shopping center. The Dutchman was in the building that's now Landry's in the Tech Center. When it first opened it was considered to be way out on the edge of town. A bit more upscale was Sperte's Laffite in Larimer Square, where Temayo is now. Other Larimer Square restaurants were the Magic Pan, the Bratskellar, and the Prairie Schooner. I used to enjoy going to Don Quijote's on South Federal back in the day.
Someone mentioned Top of the Rockies--that was where I went with my folks for my high school graduation. But before that a group of my friends celebrated our graduation at a swank place called " The PTI" on east Hampden. We felt like real big shots.
That's good stuff, Jude!
That's good stuff, Jude! Thanks for sharing your memories with us. There are actually a few Hungry Farmers still operating, including one in La Junta.
What about Sperti's Laffite
What about Sperti's Laffite Restaurant on 14th and Larimer. I worked there in the early 70's. Great food.
Hi David. Laffite's in
Hi David. Laffite's in Larimer Square made the best onion soup, covered with a thick coat of cheese, and home made bread to dip into it. I worked in the square from 1973 to 1978. Great little shops, restaurants. But now, it has lost its small charm. Those days are gone.
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